Jack的小留学生日记 l 礼仪和着装-大衣

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英国的雨似乎连绵不断，一年四季中寒冷的天气较多。在这种天气下生活，拥有一件抗寒保暖并又优雅得体的外套至关重要。本期内容是介绍英国本土的大衣文化，并帮大家排解购选大衣时候的种种困惑。

 

尽管运动品牌的摇粒绒外套或羽绒服是户外探险的理想之选，也许在休闲的场合或旅行中设计的更科学保暖，但如果搭配西装，校服或任何正式的衣服，会显得整体着装不得体，搭配看起来很奇怪，甚至得到更少的尊重。因此，我认为大衣是唯一能够搭配正式服装的外套。实际上，外套可供选择的种类繁多，拥有一件合身得体的外套是关键，并且它们的使用寿命很长。

1. 风衣

首先，风衣是英国最受欢迎的大衣种类之一，因为它非常适合英国的阴雨天气。最初在1853年，英国著名时尚品牌Aquascutum（雅格斯丹）（源自拉丁语，“水”和“盾牌”）John Emary制造发明了风衣，由橡胶处理的物质制成。 后来英国时尚品牌Burberry（巴宝莉）的创始人Thomas Burberry发明了一种特殊的棉织材料，称为棉华达呢，它是一种紧密编织的精纺棉织材料，经过处理使其既轻巧又完全防水。

在历史记载中，风衣曾在布尔战争中被英国士兵所使用，Burberry风衣成为第一次世界大战中英国士兵的形象标志。经典的Burberry风衣永存至今，在选购时建议选择经典卡其色或蓝色的华达呢材质的外套，外套长度达到膝盖左右是最为合适的。Burberry和Aquascutum都是不错的大衣品牌选择，尤其Burberry您可以购买大衣里额外的内衬层使其更加保暖，但价格偏贵。除此之外，我个人比较喜欢Uniqlo（优衣库）的风衣，既保暖又有型，性价比非常高。

2. 羊毛大衣

接下来，羊毛大衣也是冬季外套的流行选择。尽管羊毛大衣可能不如风衣防风防水，但本质上羊毛制品更温暖，更适合寒冷的日子。羊毛大衣的种类很多，双排扣羊毛大衣（Pea-coat），柴斯特菲尔德大衣（Chesterfield），轻皮短外套（Covert），阿尔斯特大衣（Ulster）到埃普索姆（Epsom），帕莱托宽外套（Paletot）和马球（Polo），选择种类无穷无尽，所有样式都可以接受且简洁大方。

羊毛大衣的主要区别在于扣子的样式-单排扣或双排扣不同，对于单排扣大衣，只有一组纽扣，在大衣中间；而双排扣大衣则有两组纽扣，并且这样的纽扣的一侧在另一侧上方，从而在外套上形成了两层中间，使它更温暖、更抗风。羊毛外套的风格简洁，两种扣子的样式都很好，更好随意的穿搭。

当购买羊毛大衣时，我建议选择100％羊毛或不超过20％羊绒的羊毛与羊绒混纺，因为我认为羊毛在这种情况下既保暖又耐用且使用长久、并且外套的长度至少应直达膝盖（除非是外衣，因为它最初是为保持水手保暖而设计的，所以像西装外套一样适合）。我有件来自Charles Tyrwhitt的双排扣Epsom外套，它是90％的羊毛和10％的羊绒，质量和价格都非常好。

归根结底，一件合身的经典大衣是一项明智的投资，每次穿上它都会显得格外绅士优雅。

Jack

英文版

Etiquette and Attire #06 - Coats 

Living in the United Kingdom, where the rain just seems to never stop and the weather for a great deal of the years is rather cold, a coat is essential to stay dry and warm and to survive the weather. And although a fleece coat or a puffer jacket from sports brands might be great for outdoors expedition, more Casual occasions and travel as it might be more scientifically designed to keep warm, with a suit, school uniform or anything formal, they just look off and unflattering, making you look odd and even maybe making fewer people respect you. So in my opinion, the overcoat is the only acceptable outerwear with formal clothing. But there is actually a lot of variant of overcoats out there and having the right one for your need is very important as they are designed to last for a long time.

Firstly, one of the most popular overcoats in the UK is the trench-coat as it is perfect for the rainy weather of Britain. Firstly, invented in 1853 by John Emary, founder of the famous British fashion brand, Aquascutum (from Latin, meaning “water” and “shield”), the coat is first made out of a rubberised substance, but later on, Thomas Burberry, founder of the fashion brand Burberry, invented a special woven cotton material called cotton gabardine which is a tight woven worsted cotton material that is treated to make it both lightweight and completely waterproof. The coat was used by the British soldiers in the Boer War, but most famously, the First World War where all British Soldiers were issued one. Today, if you want to buy the trench coat, I would suggest going with the gabardine material in khaki or in blue, with the coat length reaching to your knee. Brands like Burberry and Aquascutum are great choices and especially with Burberry, you can buy extra insert layers which make them quite warm and suitable for the winter, but they might be a little expensive. I personally have one made by Uniqlo which I found to be of good value. 

Next, we have the wool overcoats which is also a popular choice to sport in the winter. Although they might not be as water-resistant to the trench-coats, they are made of wool which inherently makes them warmer and more suitable for the colder days. There are many types of wool overcoats; from the Pea-coat, the Chesterfield, the Covert, the Ulster to the Epsom, the Paletot and the Polo, the options are endless and all the styles are quite acceptable and dapper so I wouldn’t go much into this. But the main differences with the overcoats are the buttoning style - single-breasted or double-breasted. With single-breasted coats, there is only one set of buttons and the coat meet in the middle, while the double-breasted has two sets of buttons and is a button as such with one side going over the other, creating two layers in the middle which makes it warmer and more wind resistant. But just like the style of coats, both style of buttoning is fine so just go with whatever suits you. When buying a wool coat, I would suggest going with either 100% wool or a wool and cashmere blend of no more than 20% cashmere as in my opinion, wool, in this case, is just as warm but also more durable and longer-lasting; and the length of the coat should reach down to your knees at least (except if it’s a peacoat, which should fit like a blazer as it was originally designed to keep sailors warm).  I personally have a double-breasted Epsom coat from Charles Tyrwhitt which is 90% wool and 10% cashmere and I find it to be of very good quality and value. 

Ultimately, a well-fitted classic overcoat is a smart investment you’ll get thousands of wears out of. And every time you put it on, you’ll instantly step up your style and look more dapper and elegant. 

Jack

*文章版权归Jack同学所有

 

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